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Tested! AS Performance TFSi 2.0 Induction kit, 15 bhp gain on Rolling road testing
Tested! AS Performance TFSi 2.0 Induction kit, 15 bhp gain on Rolling road testing
AS Performance Inlet manifolds available from stock
AS Performance Inlet manifolds available from stock
AIRTEC Release Focus ST Stage 2,3 & 4 Intercoolers 275bhp - 500 bhp
AIRTEC Release Focus ST Stage 2,3 & 4 Intercoolers 275bhp - 500 bhp

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Your Cars

Focus RS Mk1 Engine detailing, befor & After.
Make over the dull engine bay of your Focus RS with trick new kit from Auto Specialists


back

Remove the previously fitted black intercooler pipe by undoing the silicone hoses joining into the inlet elbow. We’re swapping this for a Auto Specialists’ polished jobbies.
Remove the previously fitted black intercooler pipe by undoing the silicone hoses joining into the inlet elbow. We’re swapping this for a Auto Specialists’ polished jobbies.
Remove the sensors from the old one and fit them to the new item. Give them a quick clean too.
Remove the sensors from the old one and fit them to the new item. Give them a quick clean too.
The lifting eyes on the cam cover are pretty necessary but horrible. We’ll replace them last but need to be removed first, including the earth strap on the back eye.
The lifting eyes on the cam cover are pretty necessary but horrible. We’ll replace them last but need to be removed first, including the earth strap on the back eye.
Remove the plug wires. Ours were ready numbered so were dead easy. You could even fit a colour-coded blue set here if you can source some.
Remove the plug wires. Ours were ready numbered so were dead easy. You could even fit a colour-coded blue set here if you can source some.
Clean the top off to prevent dirt getting in the engine, then unbolt the stainless cover on the front of the engine, which will be replaced with a new one.
Clean the top off to prevent dirt getting in the engine, then unbolt the stainless cover on the front of the engine, which will be replaced with a new one.
Disconnect the breather hose with a suitable hose clip remover.
Disconnect the breather hose with a suitable hose clip remover.
Unbolt the fixings holding down the old cam cover. Lift it clear, making sure you don?t drop any crap into the top of the engine. The cams will now be exposed.
Unbolt the fixings holding down the old cam cover. Lift it clear, making sure you don’t drop any crap into the top of the engine. The cams will now be exposed.
Wipe the gasket mating surfaces clean. Turn the newly painted cam cover over and fit a brand new gasket. This is one-piece rubber and a bit fiddly to fit but it?s worth it to avoid leaks.
Wipe the gasket mating surfaces clean. Turn the newly painted cam cover over and fit a brand new gasket. This is one-piece rubber and a bit fiddly to fit but it’s worth it to avoid leaks.
Slip the new cam cover home, making sure it?s seated properly. New stainless steel cap-head bolts were fitted.
Slip the new cam cover home, making sure it’s seated properly. New stainless steel cap-head bolts were fitted.
Auto Specialists makes a polished billet oil filler cap to seal the top up. Use some clean oil to lubricate the rubber before slotting it in the cover.
Auto Specialists makes a polished billet oil filler cap to seal the top up. Use some clean oil to lubricate the rubber before slotting it in the cover.
Fitting the plug wires back is obvious but they?re ugly so need an AS cover too. Fit the alloy spacers before dropping on the new stainless cover. It?s fitted with new stainless cap-head Allen screws supplied.
Fitting the plug wires back is obvious but they’re ugly so need an AS cover too. Fit the alloy spacers before dropping on the new stainless cover. It’s fitted with new stainless cap-head Allen screws supplied.
We used this simple folded stainless cover to dress up the plastic fuel rail, which is held in place with adhesive pads on the back.
We used this simple folded stainless cover to dress up the plastic fuel rail, which is held in place with adhesive pads on the back.
Remove the pressed tin turbo heatshield and replace it with this fabricated and polished stainless cover, which bolts on.
Remove the pressed tin turbo heatshield and replace it with this fabricated and polished stainless cover, which bolts on.
Replace the front cover with the new AS stainless cover.
Replace the front cover with the new AS stainless cover.
Fit the stainless lifting eyes back in place. Note they’re complete with engraved RS logo.
Fit the stainless lifting eyes back in place. Note they’re complete with engraved RS logo.
We replaced the dipstick tube with an AS chrome jobbie. AS only uses new Ford parts.
We replaced the dipstick tube with an AS chrome jobbie. AS only uses new Ford parts.
Prior to fitting it to the cylinder block, lubricate the rubber O-ring with clean engine oil.
Prior to fitting it to the cylinder block, lubricate the rubber O-ring with clean engine oil.
The dipstick itself has a plastic top, which is cut off with a hacksaw and replaced with a polished billet alloy piece, held in place with a grub screw.
The dipstick itself has a plastic top, which is cut off with a hacksaw and replaced with a polished billet alloy piece, held in place with a grub screw.
Unscrew the grotty Ford coil pack bracket, unbolt it from the head and swap it for the new stainless AS item.
Unscrew the grotty Ford coil pack bracket, unbolt it from the head and swap it for the new stainless AS item.
Replace the intercooler pipe with a new alloy AS piece connected by a colour-coded section of silicone hose, naturally held on with stainless hose clips.
Replace the intercooler pipe with a new alloy AS piece connected by a colour-coded section of silicone hose, naturally held on with stainless hose clips.
A bit of work is involved to replace the front cam cover. Place a jack under the sump to support the weight of the engine.
A bit of work is involved to replace the front cam cover. Place a jack under the sump to support the weight of the engine.
Remove the radiator expansion tank. You don’t have to disconnect it as the hoses are long enough for it to simply swing out of the way.
Remove the radiator expansion tank. You don’t have to disconnect it as the hoses are long enough for it to simply swing out of the way.
Unbolt the entire left-hand engine mount assembly, and remove it.
Unbolt the entire left-hand engine mount assembly, and remove it.
The new stainless cam cover slides in from the front, which means the engine mount would have been in the way. The cover now simply bolts in place of the old one
The new stainless cam cover slides in from the front, which means the engine mount would have been in the way. The cover now simply bolts in place of the old one
Topping this bit off is a stainless AS cover for the top of the engine mount, which is held in place with four self-adhesive pads.
Topping this bit off is a stainless AS cover for the top of the engine mount, which is held in place with four self-adhesive pads.
Nearly all of the components to dress up the ancillaries are covers to hide standard fixtures. They’re mostly held on with double-sided tape squares, which are usually ready installed, or with Sikoflex-type glue in a tube.
Nearly all of the components to dress up the ancillaries are covers to hide standard fixtures. They’re mostly held on with double-sided tape squares, which are usually ready installed, or with Sikoflex-type glue in a tube.
This bit’s the rear side of a new stainless cover for the fusebox, which sits at the back of the Focus RS’s engine bay
This bit’s the rear side of a new stainless cover for the fusebox, which sits at the back of the Focus RS’s engine bay
It’s vitally important that the battery cover is insulated first otherwise it’ll short out and the battery will explode Alan uses a section of plastic sheeting for this.
It’s vitally important that the battery cover is insulated first otherwise it’ll short out and the battery will explode Alan uses a section of plastic sheeting for this.
The expansion tank also has a cover, which is held in place with adhesive while a polished billet cover goes over the top of the plastic cap.
The expansion tank also has a cover, which is held in place with adhesive while a polished billet cover goes over the top of the plastic cap.
Unscrew the power steering reservoir plastic cap and fit the cover using double-sided tape, followed by a billet cover that fits over the top of the original cap.
Unscrew the power steering reservoir plastic cap and fit the cover using double-sided tape, followed by a billet cover that fits over the top of the original cap.
Repeat the process for the brake fluid reservoir and washer bottle - although this has a trick formed stainless neck piece - followed by a new polished billet lid.
Repeat the process for the brake fluid reservoir and washer bottle - although this has a trick formed stainless neck piece - followed by a new polished billet lid.
AS makes covers to fit around the bay too. These plates are held on with double-sided tape and cover the slam panel area with this neat bit covering the plastic hump.
AS makes covers to fit around the bay too. These plates are held on with double-sided tape and cover the slam panel area with this neat bit covering the plastic hump.
Plates to dress the wing rails screw in place, but first you need to remove the fixing bolts and fit spacers supplied to clear the pressings in the wing rail.
Plates to dress the wing rails screw in place, but first you need to remove the fixing bolts and fit spacers supplied to clear the pressings in the wing rail.
Neat billet alloy covers bolt over the top of the strut towers. Unbolt the original strut top fixings, making sure the wheels are in firm contact with the ground, and bolt the new ones in place with the fixings supplied.
Neat billet alloy covers bolt over the top of the strut towers. Unbolt the original strut top fixings, making sure the wheels are in firm contact with the ground, and bolt the new ones in place with the fixings supplied.
Replace the standard bonnet prop with an AS stainless piece, which simply slots in place of the old one.
Replace the standard bonnet prop with an AS stainless piece, which simply slots in place of the old one.
The bulkhead panel is pretty boring as standard as it’s covered in black sound deadening felt. To get the two-pieces of polished stainless in there, there’s a bit of prep needed.
The bulkhead panel is pretty boring as standard as it’s covered in black sound deadening felt. To get the two-pieces of polished stainless in there, there’s a bit of prep needed.
Unbolt everything attached, including the star washers which hold the sound deadening felt in place. The plastic pins behind can be simply cut off flush with the bulkhead because they won’t be needed.
Unbolt everything attached, including the star washers which hold the sound deadening felt in place. The plastic pins behind can be simply cut off flush with the bulkhead because they won’t be needed.
We needed to pull the fusebox forward on the right hand side to give us some more room.
We needed to pull the fusebox forward on the right hand side to give us some more room.
Alan simply removes the sound deadening felt.
Alan simply removes the sound deadening felt.
The bulkhead plates slide down behind and are held in place with stainless steel screws and the components that are screwed to it.
The bulkhead plates slide down behind and are held in place with stainless steel screws and the components that are screwed to it.
Alan’s car is also fitted with one of Auto Specialists’ new products - a Airtec turbo water cooler in polished alloy, naturally
Alan’s car is also fitted with one of Auto Specialists’ new products - a Airtec turbo water cooler in polished alloy, naturally
And there you have it, an engine bay to be proud of. The beauty of engine dress-up kits is that you can do it bit by bit when funds allow. So get out the polishing cloths and get yourself a mint engine
And there you have it, an engine bay to be proud of. The beauty of engine dress-up kits is that you can do it bit by bit when funds allow. So get out the polishing cloths and get yourself a mint engine