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Ford escort Mk5/6 engine bay before & after feature
Engine not tuned, but still want to show it off? Get yourself some chrome and stainless to get things tarted up good and proper...


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We’re going to start with the coolant and power steering tanks, this way if you get a leak or drop some fluid there’s nothing else shiny in there to stain or mark.
We’re going to start with the coolant and power steering tanks, this way if you get a leak or drop some fluid there’s nothing else shiny in there to stain or mark.
To get the power steering tank out, slide it upwards, then there are two 10mm nuts on the inner strut top and front inner wing to remove the header tank.
To get the power steering tank out, slide it upwards, then there are two 10mm nuts on the inner strut top and front inner wing to remove the header tank.
Use a pair of pliers to remove the spring clip on the water tank, Alan has a special tool for this, but careful use of the pliers will do the job.
Use a pair of pliers to remove the spring clip on the water tank, Alan has a special tool for this, but careful use of the pliers will do the job.
First, clamp the water pipe off that enters the bottom of the reservoir then there’s a normal jubilee-style clip at the bottom to undo, with these out of the way you can now remove the old tank. This would also be a good time to replace your hoses. As the new Auto Specialist tanks are bolted together, they go in together.
First, clamp the water pipe off that enters the bottom of the reservoir then there’s a normal jubilee-style clip at the bottom to undo, with these out of the way you can now remove the old tank. This would also be a good time to replace your hoses. As the new Auto Specialist tanks are bolted together, they go in together.
With the reservoirs firmly bolted into place, put the water hoses onto the new tank and secure them with new clips.
With the reservoirs firmly bolted into place, put the water hoses onto the new tank and secure them with new clips.
Now it’s time for the power steering fluid reservoir. Swap the small top mounted pipe over then clamp off the bottom feed hose.
Now it’s time for the power steering fluid reservoir. Swap the small top mounted pipe over then clamp off the bottom feed hose.
To get the bottom hose off without spilling fluid everywhere you’ve got to turn the reservoir on its side, but as the power steering reservoir cap has got a hole in it we’ve unscrewed it and stuck a piece of plastic film over the top, then put the cap back on. Now you can undo the bottom hose clip, remove it, and put it straight onto your new reservoir.
To get the bottom hose off without spilling fluid everywhere you’ve got to turn the reservoir on its side, but as the power steering reservoir cap has got a hole in it we’ve unscrewed it and stuck a piece of plastic film over the top, then put  the  cap back on. Now you can undo the bottom hose clip, remove it, and put it straight onto your new reservoir.
Alan is keen to point out that you put the hoses back on placing them where they were originally, so they’re not fouling or rubbing on anything they shouldn’t be.
Alan is keen to point out that you put the hoses back on placing them where they were originally, so they’re not fouling or rubbing on anything they shouldn’t be.
You’re not going to need to use all the power steering fluid when you’re putting it back in. Just put enough in so there’s some room at the top for expansion, roughly three quarters full will be fine, then top up the water reservoir.
You’re not going to need to use all the power steering fluid when you’re putting it back in. Just put enough in so there’s some room at the top for expansion, roughly three quarters full will be fine, then top up the water reservoir.
Shiny new tanks are going to look pretty cack with the old yellow Ford caps, so these cap covers have four lugs which locate into recesses in the original Ford part. They’re a tight fit, but a blob of mastic (like tiling sealant) is used for added security.
Shiny new tanks are going to look pretty cack with the old yellow Ford caps, so these cap covers have four lugs which locate into recesses in the original Ford part. They’re a tight fit, but a blob of mastic (like tiling sealant) is used for added security.
Cambelt and rocker cover next, there’s some wiring to deal with so pull the clips that are on the end of the cambelt cover up, then push them to one side. This will expose the two 8mm bolts to remove the cambelt top cover.
Cambelt and rocker cover next, there’s some wiring to deal with so pull the clips that are on the end of the cambelt cover up, then push them to one side. This will expose the two 8mm bolts to remove the cambelt top cover.
Take the plug leads out, they are set to length and numbered, but if yours aren’t wrap a bit of masking tape around them and number them yourself.
Take the plug leads out, they are set to length and numbered, but if yours aren’t wrap a bit of masking tape around them and number them yourself.
On the back of the rocker cover is the breather pipe, so get the clip off and remove this.
On the back of the rocker cover is the breather pipe, so get the clip off and remove this.
The old rocker cover is held on with 10mm bolts, so undo them and remove. The original one has metal collars in the holes between the bolts and the cover, so if you send yours in to be polished, make sure you hold onto them.
The old rocker cover is held on with 10mm bolts, so undo them and remove. The original one has metal collars in the holes between the bolts and the cover, so if you send yours in to be polished, make sure you hold onto them.
Clean the mating surface of the head making sure it’s nice and dry. The rocker cover gasket only goes one way round, so using a new one, place it into your polished cover along with those metal collars.
Clean the mating surface of the head making sure it’s nice and dry. The rocker cover gasket only goes one way round, so using a new one, place it into your polished cover along with those metal collars.
As you put the cover back on lower the edge nearest the wind screen down first to make contact, this way you can see that the gasket is sitting correctly.
As you put the cover back on lower the edge nearest the wind screen down first to make contact, this way you can see that the gasket is sitting correctly.
There are four spacers needed for the plug lead cover, rest them in place and be careful not to drop them down the plug holes. Using new bolts, put everything together, but don’t tighten down.
There are four spacers needed for the plug lead cover, rest them in place and be careful not to drop them down the plug holes. Using new bolts, put everything together, but don’t tighten down.
When you put the oil filler cap on, push a little bit of oil around the O-ring to stop it from pinching or kinking, that way you get a good deal and no oil spurts over your nice shiny rocker cover.
When you put the oil filler cap on, push a little bit of oil around the O-ring to stop it from pinching or kinking, that way you get a good deal and no oil spurts over your nice shiny rocker cover.
Now the cam cover can go on and the whole lot can be tightened up. Because we?re using new bolts, there isn?t a torque setting so do them up and give them a nip afterwards for good measure.
Now the cam cover can go on and the whole lot can be tightened up. Because we’re using new bolts, there isn’t a torque setting so do them up and give them a nip afterwards for good measure.
Next it’s the heat shield for the exhaust, these are the bolts you’ll have to remove. If you’ve got air con fitted this step will be slightly trickier.
Next it’s the heat shield for the exhaust, these are the bolts you’ll have to remove. If you’ve got air con fitted this step will be slightly trickier.
With the heat shield out of the way, it’s best to do the dipstick tube now. There’s a 13mm nut that holds this in place, then it should pull out with some light force... Pay attention to the way it feeds out as it’s bent and will only come out a certain way.
With the heat shield out of the way, it’s best to do the dipstick tube now. There’s a 13mm nut that holds this in place, then it should pull out with some light force... Pay attention to the way it feeds out as it’s bent and will only come out a certain way.
To replace, feed the tube in from above and then reach in underneath and feel for the hole to feed it back in.
To replace, feed the tube in from above and then reach in underneath and feel for the hole to feed it back in.
The top of the dipstick needs to be modified to slide the new handle on, depending on your model you’ll have a yellow or black T-bar. This needs chopping off with a hacksaw then the new one can slip on and be secured with a grub screw.
The top of the dipstick needs to be modified to slide the new handle on, depending on your model you’ll have a yellow or black T-bar. This needs chopping off with a hacksaw then the new one can slip on and be secured with a grub screw.
Now you can replace the heat shield, Auto Specialists uses a stencil-type info logo on quite a few of their products, which gives them a purposeful, industrial feel.
Now you can replace the heat shield, Auto Specialists uses a stencil-type info logo on quite a few of their products, which gives them a purposeful, industrial feel.
The lifting eye is a good example of how simple yet effective this process can be - remove the old bolt, remove the old eye, then replace with the new one.
The lifting eye is a good example of how simple yet effective this process can be - remove the old bolt, remove the old eye, then replace with the new one.
Where we reckon AS is clever is in providing a solution where we didn’t even realise there was a problem, for example the wiper linkage bracket cover. With the ignition on, centre the wipers so they’re vertical, then switch it off and remove the keys.
Where we reckon AS is clever is in providing a solution where we didn’t even realise there was a problem, for example the wiper linkage bracket cover. With the ignition on, centre the wipers so they’re vertical, then switch it off and remove the keys.
It’s a bit tricky here, but there’s a couple of penny washers under the panel, as there’s a metal bush in the middle, which it will tighten down onto. It is tricky, but worth it. It’s worth noting that Auto Specialists make sure that everything that needs a new bolt should come with them supplied.
It’s a bit tricky here, but there’s a couple of penny washers under the panel, as there’s a metal bush in the middle, which it will tighten down onto. It is tricky, but worth it. It’s worth noting that Auto Specialists make sure that everything that needs a new bolt should come with them supplied.
Next up it’s the ABS pump cover, this time it’s held in place by a c-shaped bracket...
Next up it’s the ABS pump cover, this time it’s held in place by a c-shaped bracket...
...which simply clamps to the cover with two nuts and bolts, again loosely tighten it and then jiggle it around to line it up before final tightening.
...which simply clamps to the cover with two nuts and bolts, again loosely tighten it and then jiggle it around to line it up before final tightening.
This is the fuel injector rail cover. It just sticks on with sticky pads, so make sure the surface is properly clean first.
This is the fuel injector rail cover. It just sticks on with sticky pads, so make sure the surface is properly clean first.
This is the bonnet stay top securing clip, it’s held on with a single rivet, which you’ll have to drill out. Alan will supply a stainless steel screw to replace it.
This is the bonnet stay top securing clip, it’s held on with a single rivet, which you’ll have to drill out. Alan will supply a stainless steel screw to replace it.
It would be silly not to replace the bonnet stay at the same time. Remove the stay from the slam panel by leaning it down towards the back of the engine bay, then twist it round to the nearside and out. Replacement is the reverse.
It would be silly not to replace the bonnet stay at the same time. Remove the stay from the slam panel by leaning it down towards the back of the engine bay, then twist it round to the nearside and out. Replacement is the reverse.
These are the suspension top cups, make sure the car is on the floor, then undo the top nuts and slip ’em on. Then put the nuts back on the correct torque setting.
These are the suspension top cups, make sure the car is on the floor, then undo the top nuts and slip ’em on. Then put the nuts back on the correct torque setting.
Then there’s the suspension top nut covers, again with a milled recess on the inside with a rubber O-ring that’ll need oiling to make sure it goes on well and doesn’t pinch.
Then there’s the suspension top nut covers, again with a milled recess on the inside with a rubber O-ring that’ll need oiling to make sure it goes on well and doesn’t pinch.
This is the airflow sensor cover with another cool stencil on it. Make sure it’s really clean, then stick it down with the pad supplied. If you’re feeling a bit clever, why not stick some coloured plastic behind the cover so the stencil shows up more?
This is the airflow sensor cover with another cool stencil on it. Make sure it’s really clean, then stick it down with the pad supplied. If you’re feeling a bit clever, why not stick some coloured plastic behind the cover so the stencil shows up more?
The washer bottle filler cap is one of the most popular pieces AS sells, probably because you simply pull off the old one and stick the new one on.
The washer bottle filler cap is one of the most popular pieces AS sells, probably because you simply pull off the old one and stick the new one on.
You didn’t think we’d leave the brake master cyclinder out did you? Remove the cap, slip over the cover sticking it down with the pads provided, then replace the cap and clip the new cover into place.
You didn’t think we’d leave the brake master cyclinder out did you? Remove the cap, slip over the cover sticking it down with the pads provided, then replace the cap and clip the new cover into place.
For the battery cover you’ll need to make sure the terminals are properly isolated from the cover, so an old rubber matt cut to shape under the cover will do. If you’ve got the original plastic battery cover, cut that down to fit like we’ve done.
For the battery cover you’ll need to make sure the terminals are properly isolated from the cover, so an old rubber matt cut to shape under the cover will do. If you’ve got the original plastic battery cover, cut that down to fit like we’ve done.
There’s also a neat little cover for the fuse box mounted on the side of the battery, just another nice touch that finishes the job off.
There’s also a neat little cover for the fuse box mounted on the side of the battery, just another nice touch that finishes the job off.
There’s a heat shield available for cone air filters, it’s adjustable so it’ll work with a lot of the mainstream filters. You have to remove the filter, then slip the collar on that holds it in place. Loosely tighten everything up, adjust it all so it’s sitting right and then nip it up.
There’s a heat shield available for cone air filters, it’s adjustable so it’ll work with a lot of the mainstream filters. You have to remove the filter, then slip the collar on that holds it in place. Loosely tighten everything up, adjust it all so it’s sitting right and then nip it up.
All finished, all the products fitted in this feature can be purchased from our on-line shop.
All finished, all the products fitted in this feature can be purchased from our on-line shop.